Updated May 2026: This post has been fully revised with current information as of May 2026.
In my last post, we explored how cosmetic and therapeutic products are labelled differently in Australia. Now let’s look at something that trips many of us up — the different names ingredients can have, and the two big questions we often ask ourselves:
“Is this ingredient natural?” and “Is this ingredient safe?”
Is the Ingredient Natural?
As a mum who prefers gentler options for my family, I completely understand why the word “natural” feels reassuring. However, in Australia the term “natural” (and “organic”) is not strictly regulated when it comes to cosmetics.
This means a product can claim to be “natural” even when it contains petroleum-derived ingredients or synthetic preservatives. It’s a form of greenwashing that many brands use because they know we’re looking for safer, kinder choices.
I’ve learned to look past the marketing claims and focus on the actual ingredient list. Just because something sounds natural doesn’t always mean it is — and the naming systems can make it even harder to tell.
Is the Ingredient Safe?
This is probably the question I get asked most often.
In Australia, products must be considered safe for their intended use by the relevant regulator (AICIS for cosmetics or the TGA for therapeutic goods). However, safety assessments are based on the best evidence available at the time. Our understanding of certain ingredients can evolve, just as we’ve seen with other products in the past.
I don’t believe in scaring people, but I do think it’s wise to stay informed — especially if you have sensitive skin, allergies, or young children.
Doing your own research alongside the official guidelines helps you make choices you feel comfortable with.
Why Ingredient Names Can Be So Confusing
Most cosmetic ingredients can appear under several different names.You might naturally reach for a product that lists “beeswax” or “vitamin E” because those names feel familiar and gentle. In reality, “cera alba” is the INCI name for beeswax, and “tocopherol” (or tocopheryl acetate) is the INCI name for vitamin E.
- In cosmetic products, brands can use the common English name, the INCI name, or both.
- In therapeutic products, active ingredients must use the official Australian Approved Name (AAN).
This difference means two very similar-looking products can tell quite different stories on their ingredient lists.
A Real-Life Example: Lip Balm
Let me show you what I mean with a practical example.
A popular Australian natural beauty brand sells both a regular moisturising lip balm (cosmetic) and an SPF30 version (therapeutic).
On the cosmetic version, you’ll see a full ingredient list using INCI names. The marketing talks about “Vitamins E, A and K” and “Aloe Vera”, but these appear near the bottom of the list in small amounts.
On the therapeutic SPF30 version, only the active sunscreen ingredients are listed using AAN names. The vitamin E and aloe mentioned in the marketing description don’t appear on the label at all.
This isn’t about hiding ingredients — it’s simply how the different regulations work. But it does make comparing products much more difficult than it first appears.
Ingredient Comparison
Moisturising Balm
The moisturising balm ingredients list uses INCI names in descending order of quantity, as required.
“Mineral Oil, Ozokerite, VP/Eicosene Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Microcrystalline Wax, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Silica, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Synthetic Wax”
Note the “natural ingredients” Vitamin E and Aloe Vera are at the bottom of the list.
| INCI | AAN | Synonyms | What is it? |
| (Mineral Oil)Parraffinium Liquidum | liquid paraffin | paraffin – liquidMineral oil whiteLiquid petrolatum | purified clear odorless liquid obtained from refining petroleum |
| Ozokerite | ceresin | OzokeritePurified OzokeriteEarth wax
Cerosin | mineral wax, derived from coal and shale |
| VP/Eicosene Copolymer | PVP/eicosene copolymer | VP/Eicosene copolymerPolyvinyl pyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer | used for binding, film forming, controlling viscosity |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | medium chain triglycerides | Fractionated coconut oilCaprylic/capric triglycerideMedium-chain triglycerides
Miglyol 812 Caprylic/Capric acid triglyceride | gentle moisturizer derived from coconut oil and glycerine |
| Microcrystalline Wax | microcrystalline wax | Petroleum waxwax – microcystalline | wax derived from petroleum |
| Butyrospermum Parkii Butter | shea butter unsaponifiables | Butyrospermum parkii unsaponifiablesVitellaria paradoxa unsaponifiables | Shea butter from the shea tree |
| Silica | Silicon dioxide | Silica – colloidal hydratedSilicaSilicic acid
Silica gel E551 | Silica mineral |
| Tocopheryl Acetate | dl-alpha-Tocopheryl acetate | All-rac-alpha-Tocopherol acetateVitamin E acetatedl-alpha tocopheryl acetate | Vitamin E ester |
| Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract | aloe barbadensis | Aloe veraBarbados aloesCuracao aloes | Aloe vera |
| Synthetic Wax | synthetic wax | Paraffin waxwax – synthetic | Manufactured waxes |
SPF30 Balm
The marketing description for the equivalent SPF30 lip balm claims “vitamin E softens, smooths and repairs skin. Aloe Vera moisturises, conditions and calms” and lists the active ingredients using AAN names as required.
“ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: Octyl Methoxycinnamate 85mg/g, Octocrylene 50mg/g, Oxybenzone 25mg/g, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 20mg/g”
The ingredient list does not even include the vitamin E or Aloe Vera referenced in the marketing description. Notice the therapeutic product claim to repair the skin even though none of the therapeutic actives have any skin repair function.
All the ingredients listed for the SPF balm are all for sun protection.
| INCI | AAN | Synonyms | What is it? |
| Octyl methoxycinnamate | octyl methoxycinnamate | Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamateOctinoxate | Absorbs/filters UV rays |
| Octocrylene | octocrylene | 2-Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate | Absorbs/filters UV rays |
| Benzophenone-3 | oxybenzone | Benzophenone-3 | Absorbs/filters UV rays |
| Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane | butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane | avobenzone (INN)4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethaneBMDM | Absorbs/filters UV rays |
Even if the SPF balm DID list its excipient cosmetic ingredient names (which is perfectly allowable and some brands have a greater level of transparency), they are difficult to compare because of the two different naming standards.
What would you choose?
In the next post, we’ll talk about practical tools and resources you can use to research ingredients yourself, including my favourite websites and apps that make the process much easier.
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